Skip to main content

Geek Group describes its sound studio building process

This is an old post from 2010, which I've left here in the blog, but updated it a little. I had run across some videos from the Geek Group, and they were hard at work building a sound studio earlier in 2010.

In this video, Chris describes how they affixed drywall to the original cinderblock walls of their space. I don't necessarily agree with some of their processes (didn't they read my multiple blog posts about Green Glue?), but they've been attaching wood strips to the cinderblock with glue, then adding resilient channel strips from Auralex, and then attaching drywall to the strips.

However, he confessed that they're not adding insulation behind the wall because of their budget. But they were going to caulk between the pieces of drywall and add a second layer of gypsum (drywall) on top of the the first wall, placing the second layer in the opposite direction so that the seams don't line up.

To see the older Geek Group videos, check out the National Science Institute channel on YouTube. (NOTE: In 2014, the Geek Group had a fire at their labs.)

* The YouTube video that accompanied this origial 2010 post got moved or no longer exists. The Geek Group renamed themselves as "Chaotic Good." And here is a rebranded video about how they built their studio.



Popular posts from this blog

Combining QuietRock and Green Glue together

Two great products work great together. As I've mentioned before, I'm experimenting around with ways to reduce some of the noise problems in my apartment on a tight budget. I think I've found the best combination to date: adding a layer of QuietRock 510 over an existing layer of gypsum drywall with a layer of Green Glue inbetween. This was sort of the best of both worlds: taking a pre-made, sound-dampened drywall and then adding it over a powerful, viscous layer of glue....onto drywall that was already on the wall studs. No demo needed. In this project, I basically added two sound-dampening layers to the original 1950s drywall (one layer in the QuietRock and the other layer created by the Green Glue) to address " flanking noise ": feet, furniture, and shoes pounding on the bare floor of my downstairs neighbors' apartment. The amount of banging, bashing, and foot-stomping sounds coming from their very "wooden" apartment has been severe, and I&

Blow-in cellulose and your hollow walls

It's not too late to insulate.  A few years ago, most American homes had no insulation in them. When a homeowner did insulate, it was usually with fiberglass batts. Then along came some better products. One of them is blow-in cellulose insulation. Does it work? I can attest to this: YES. I've used it in walls and ceilings, and it works quite well for airborne noise. If you live in an uninsulated home and you hear your neighbors voices coming through your walls or ceilings, cellulose will dampen that noise or mute it entirely. It doesn't work for all types of noise. But it doesn't eradicate impact noise. You might still hear the sounds of someone walking across a bare hardwood floor with their shoes on, for example, or hear wall-mounted cabinets opening and closing. There are other solutions for that, and by combining different solutions you can control most structural noise and create more privacy. Low cost Blow-in insulation is inexpensive. You can hire a

How to measure decibels and frequency with the Decibel Meter app

 Frequency matters When you're dealing with a noise issue, the frequency of that noise is just as important as the decibel level. A decibel is the loudness of the sound, and measuring decibels can alert you when a sound is more than just a nuisance, but dangerous to your health. However, decibel levels on their own don't tell the whole story. The frequency of the sound is also very important. The frequency is a measure of how many sound waves per second are produced by a sound, and determines its pitch. A low-frequency sound might be really annoying, but it might not be that loud. The lower frequencies are typically below 150 Hz, and often sound like a deep bass sound that's not necessarily loud, but the vibrations from that sound can travel through the entire frame of a building and disrupt sleep or cause stress. Knowing both the decibel level and the frequency of an unwanted sound can help you determine the right soundproofing solution. For example, a low-frequency nois